Dawn & the early morning hours is the best time to visit the Western Group of Temples in one of India’s smallest villages, Khajuraho (named after the date palm tree found extensively in earlier times, now dominated by brilliantly textured paddy fields). A recce trip i did a fortnight earlier brought out the same enthusiasm & delight i experienced on previous visits. A spartan crowd of curious visitors listened intently to knowledgeable guides as they unraveled the mystery of exquisitely carved exotic temples built in the 10th & 11th centuries by the Chandela rulers, a golden period for Indian art & architecture.

As the guide shared invaluable information interesting details came to light: though 80 temples were built only 22 remain. Being remotely located the temples escaped the wrath of invaders & plunderers until it was discovered by a British team in 1850’s. The temples belong to both Hindu as well as the Jain religions & are broadly divided into the Western, Southern & Eastern complexes. By far the most important & comprehensive carved are the Lakshmana Temple & Kandariya Mahadev Temple. . The guide went on to further explain design of these temples each of which was built on a high platform & on a single axis in an east-west direction. Comprising of three compartments the entrance is known as `ardha mandapa,’ the assembly hall as `mandapa’ & the inner sanctum as the `garbha-griha’. The central dome is surrounded by balconied windows, which admit light in the interiors. The temples consist of stunning displays of fine sculptures and exceptional architectural skill, depicting various forms like meditation, spiritual teachings, kinship, wrestling, royalty and most significantly, erotic art

An image that remains forever etched in the mind is the spire of the Kandariya Mahadev Temple (built in the style of Mount Kailash) soaring towards the skies that somehow seems to suggest, that patrons & artists in earlier times used their creative abilities to build outstanding structures that reached out to the Universe & the Creator (yes `tall’ was in vogue even in those times!) . Join our escorted journeys to Khajuraho this November, click here to register.